Last Leg of Journey - Now in Rome, Italy

I'm back where I started in Italy & have had a wonderful adventure!! On my last email I was in Bari. The following is an update on what has happened since.

6/6/10 - Left Bari on 6+ hour train ride to Bologna. Got a terrific rate on hotel in Bologna & it turned out to be the best hotel I stayed at during my entire trip. Great room, best breakfast & good location for 30 euros/night. Bologna is an old & big city. It is know for its streets with covered walkways throughout. It is kind of a dirty city but also fascinating at the same time. I took several day trips from here so really didn't get to see all the city. Caught the main highlights. Piazza Maggiore & Neptune's Fountain which was created by Giambologna in the late 16th Century. Also, the Duomo which is huge & saw the Due Torre (2 towers). Took buses throughout the city & it was easy to get around. Walked around every night to see the city & crowds.

6/7/10 - My first excursion was to Parma which is generally reckoned to have one of the highest standards of living in Italy. I originally planned to take in two cities per day so that I could spend some additional time in Bologna. This didn't happen. There is so much to see in each of these cities that I wound up spending at least 6 hrs. at each. This city is also know for it's production of prize ham - prosciutto. There were several shops that sold hams & local cheeses that were over 100 years old. I really enjoyed my day here.

6/8/10 - Today was an hour train ride (guidebook says 30 minutes) to Ferrara. This is another small city that is very charming. It was the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that ranked as a major political force throughout Renaissance times. At the end of the 16 Century, the Este were forced to hand over the city to the papacy since there were no heirs to pass title. There is a huge bulky, moated Castello Estense that was built in late 14th Century where the Este court thrived & supported most of the artists of the area. Most of the churches & palaces have wonderful frescoes that have remained or are being restored. Also spent a day here even though I though I could get by with a few hours. Visited the Museo Archeologico which was well presented in an old villa. Another fine example of grand Ferrara palaces is Palazzo Schifanoia which translates to "Palace of Joy". This is where the Este family liked to party.

6/9/10 - Today's journey took me to Ravenna. This city is only a few kilometers from the Adriatic coast & is renowned for the set of mosaics of Byzantine art. Eight of Ravenna's building are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. Dante was from here & his tomb is located near San Francesco church. This city's biggest draw is the Basilica di San Vitale which was begun in 525 under the Roman Emperor Theodoric & completed in 548 under the Byzantine ruler Justinian. I also got to visit the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra (House of Stone Carpets) which is the remains of a palace from the late Roman-early Byzantine period. It is know for its intricately crafted floor & wall mosaics. This medieval town was very different from the others but had a similar layout. The history is such amazing in these villages it is mind boggling.

6/10/10 - The last city I visited in this area was Modena. This is where Luciano Pavarotti called home. It is also know for the area that Balsamic Vinegar is made for all of Italy. This medieval city boasts a 12th Century Duomo that is considered one of the finest Romanesque period structures in Italy. It is also on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Again, this is a quaint, charming small city.

After visiting Modena I headed back to Bologna & was able to wander around for a couple of hours since this is my last night here. I really enjoyed my stay in the Bologna area & would still like to come back and explore more of the area.

6/11/10 - Took the regionale train & connected in Arezzo to Perugia. I'm leaving the Emilia-Romagna area of Italy & going into the Umbria provence. Perugia is the provincial capital & the gateway to the hill villages plus it is the largest of the hill towns. I sort of made a mistake in selecting a hotel near the train station since it is a 10 minute bus ride to the top of the hill & center of Perugia. I thought I would be taking the train to most of my excursions but it works out better to take buses to the surrounding hill towns & it is also a 10 minute bus ride to the terminal. Hotel Astor was directly across from the train station & not bad. Room was nice & staff were some of the best I've encountered. One of the managers (maybe an owner) spoke great English & was very helpful. There is also a coop market right near the hotel which was great.

I took the Minmetro, which is new & consists of small cars that run on a rail that takes you up to the top of the town. When I got to the top I walked around. Very medieval with narrow winding streets that lead down. There are a couple of main squares & the anchor buildings of each were amazing. Piazza Italia is main bus location on top of hill. From there you can take an escalator down to Piazza Partigiani where the urban Bus Terminal is located & where I took buses to outlying towns. The views of the surrounding countryside is striking & spectacular!

This afternoon I took a local bus to the Perugina Chocolate Museum which is located in the suburbs about 30 minutes from the city center (San Sisto). It was a bit of a hike & the factory is closed for tours but they do have a museum. They also give out free chocolate (I kind of pigged out here). The company was bought out by Nestle a few years ago but still keeps the name. This is where Bacci chocolates are made & the history goes back to the beginning of the century. Got a little bit lost trying to find bus back to center but finally got it.

6/12/10 - Went to the Bus Terminal in Piazza Partigiani & took bus to Gubbio. I read that this was a super town that is set up a hill & has lot of history & interest. My guidebook wasn't wrong. It is considered one of the most thoroughly medieval of the Umbrian towns. I first visited the Palazzo dei Consoli which houses the Museo Civico & the famous Eugubine Tablets which were discovered in 1444 by an illiterate shepherd & consists of 7 bronze tablets. These tablets are the only extant record of the ancient Umbrian language. There were also great archeological items in this museum. Unfortunately I could not take any photos (heh heh, what a sneak -- I did). Afterward I visited the Duomo & the Palazzo Ducale. The art work, especially the frescoes, were amazing. I wandered around the town a bit & found the funicular that goes up to the top of this hill to visit Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo. The funicular was a kick. It is a standup funicular that hold 2 people & has fabulous views as long as your not afraid of heights. There were great views of the town from top of the mountain. This is a really neat town that also specializes in ceramics. The displays are super. I spent several hours here before returning to Perugia by bus.

The night before, I checked out a restaurant (Dal Mi Cocco) that was listed in my guidebook & made a reservation for tonight. This place is one of the best meals I've had in Italy. There is no menu they serve a different main course each night plus an appetizer, 1st course, salad, second course & dessert for 13 Euros. Tonight was roast meats which consisted of slice of lamb, pork, chicken & sausage (ummm). The food & service were outstanding. They bottle their own wine & sell a bottle for 5 Euros which you can take whatever you don't drink (brought the empty bottle home with me). Great experience & the owner served me. Place was packed. It was also Saturday evening & town was jumping. Had a great day.

6/13/10 - Today's journey took me to Assisi. Took a bus again which drops you off at top of town. This is also a hill town. I followed Rick Steve' Guide for this town that gave a walking tour & it proved to be pretty good. This city is packed with history & most famous for the Basilica di San Francesco. This is where St. Francis lived & practiced & where the Franciscan order was founded. There was a Teatro Romano here plus a Roman Forum. The Temple of Minivera was built over the Forum. I also took a hike up the mountain (whew!! I'm still huffing & puffing) to Rocco Maggiore which is a huge castle with super views. I agree that one of the most spectacular sites in Italy is the Basilica. It is huge with an upper & lower church. The frescoes tell the life of St. Francis & span a century of artistic development. Giotto was primary artist for the frescoes in the upper Church. Again no picture taking & they really watch you. Decided to stay later here & took 6:30pm bus back to Perugia. Ate at lovely Restaurant del Sole which has a commanding view of the countryside. Food was also outstanding here.

6/14/10 - My last hilltop town was Spoleto. This time I took the train which was more convenient. There is a music festival held here every year that fill up the town. Highlights were the Duomo, a 12th Century church (Sant 'Eufenia), & of course another huge castle - the Rocca. Got stuck here a bit late because of scheduling of train. Didn't get back to Perugia until 8:30pm. Had an ordinary dinner before walking around town for last time. Again, really enjoyed my stay in the Perugia area.

6/15/10 - The day before I had the hotel do my laundry. They didn't have it ready until this morning & only charged me 5 Euros to do my clothes. Got it, packed & walked across the street to the station after checking out. Took my seat & about 6 minutes before train was leaving for Rome & realized that I left my passport & money in the hotel safe. I ran back & got it & luckily one of staff from hotel took my heavy bag & we ran back to the train. Literally jumped on board & 1 minute later the train left. That was a close call & I was sweating for 10 minutes before I could calm down. Ah, the trial & tribulations of travel!!

Got into Rome & went back to hotel I stayed at before. They gave me a nice room with air conditioning. The weather for the past 2.5 weeks has been in the 90's every day. Some rain but not too bad.

Well it is time to say goodbye to Rome. I'm leaving tomorrow morning & will be back in NY in the evening. I'll follow up on my adventures today when I get back. Had a wonderful trip!!

Hello from Bari to Bologna Train, Italy

Believe it or not I'm still having a great time!! Feet are getting much better. Weight is questionable, although my pants still fit. Every night I have pasta, salad & a main course plus wine. Food has been wonderful throughout. Fish, meat, pasta, wine - Buonissimo!!! So far there isn't too much chicken in this part of Italy.

Here is my adventures since my last email...

5/29/10 - I took a short local train from Lecce to my next destination - the hillside town of Ostuni. I booked a B&B on the phone that I found in my guidebook. There is a bus that meets the train & takes you the 6km up to town. The train was late so no bus. I called Georgio (mgr of B&B) who picked me up from the station with his Smart car (tiny, just enough room for me & bags). The B&B was located up the hill from the old town & on top floor of the bldg (whew! Did I get my exercise here). Stayed here 4 nts. & thanks to Georgio's help was able to rent a car for 2 days @ 30Euros/day. Had lots of places I wanted to visit & car is only practical way.

1st afternoon took a bus to small town of Martina Franca. All the towns in this region have an old "centro storico" or old city. Their streets are narrow & meander around. Very quaint & charming. spent a few hours here.

5/30/10 - Spent morning exploring old town of Ostuni. Most of building are whitewashed & of course there is a Cathedrale. Very lovely but was able to see everything in a few hours.

Decided to take a train to Bari in the afternoon to scout for hotel later in the week. Bari is one of bigest cities in area & the guidbooks don't give it much attention. I was there on a Sunday so streets were really empty but I really liked this city. Found a place for 1 nt when I leave Puglia. Visited some of centro storico & Castello Normanno-Svevo which was the site of an earlier Roman fort built by Frederick II. It is huge. Headed back to Ostuni & had one of best dinners in old town there.

5/31/10 - Was picked up at my B&B with my Fiat Panda rental car arranged by Georgio. A father & son have a repair garage in nearby town & rent some cars. I filled out paper work & was on my way. No credit card needed, just pay them when I return the car.

Had a busy & great day! Visited the small towns of Cisternino & Locototondo before heading to Alberobello. This town is noted for it's collection of trulli's which are cylindrical, whitewashed buildings with grey conical roofs & are used mainly as dwellings. Spent a few hours here wandering around. Stumbled on a trulli where owner invited me in along with few other people. Very interesting. Left a small donation. He was real nice but only spoke Italian. There was a couple from France & young couple from Rimini. They spoke great English & translated for me.

Decided to make a trip to Matera & secure my B&B there. Got another one from my guide book that is located next to Piazza Duomo which is highest point in the Sassi (I'll explain latter). What a fabulous city situated on two hills with a revene in between. Made my reservation & headed back to Ostuni. Had dinner at small place in Cisternino. Got back about 10pm. All in all had a super day.

6/1/10 - Had an event packed day planned that also turned out great. Left from Ostuni & headed along the beaches of the Adriatic Sea. Lots of small villages with resorts & fish restaurants. Heard about the ancient city of Egnazia. It was first settled in 5th century BC. Was later colonized by the Greeks & Romans in 244 BC. It was finally abandoned in 10th Century AD after much turmoil. It was very interesting site & ruins were easy to view.

From there I went to Calstellana Grotte which is caverns that are suppose to be some of the best in Europe. Unfortunately due to "siesta mode" was not able to visit so I went on to Castel del Monte. A hugh fortification built by Frederick II (remember him from the Bari fort) which is considered the finest surviving examples of Swabian architecture. He really got around. This castle/fort is situated on top of a hill overlooking the entire countryside. It is kind of a ripoff to see this castle. They will not let any cars up the hill so they charge 4 euros for parking & the shuttle. It was free since I'm over 65.

After this I decided to visit Altamura which is another medieval town that is considered the bread capital of the region. Tried to find the tourist office & got a bit lost. Talked with this older gentleman who owned a carpet store & he walked me to the tourist office which was about 5 minutes from his store. He only spoke Italian but was so nice & when we got to the office it was closed so he took me to another. That is the kind of people in these small towns. Found an antica forno (old bread oven) & bought my loaf of super bread for 1 euro.

Headed back to Ostuni & had dinner in Alberobello at another lovely restaurant on the main street going out of town. Another wonderful day. I'm so glad I had the car. My GPS got me lost a few times & even took me on dirt roads but I got home safely.

6/2/10 - Today was a National Holiday in Italy so everything was closed & running on Festivi schedule. Took my car back to turn it in & when I got there it was all closed up. Kind of got worried & tried to call them but had no service on my phone. About 10 minutes later the father came out of a house across from the garage. He called his son & we settled up and the father drove me to Ostuni station. He took the scenic route & pointed out friends houses along the way. What a great experience from this family.

It still amazes me how the Italians can function here with the policies on midday breaks & weekends. There is a separate train line that covers this part of Italy & it is not part of Trenitalia. Ferrovia Apulano Lucane does not operate trains on Sunday or holidays but they do have a bus.

I had to take the train to Bari & then catch a bus to Matera since the local train line didn't run on Sundays or Holidays. I found out where to catch the bus (4 euros) & off I went. The bus stopped in several small towns before arriving in Matera. I was counting on my GPS to take me to my B&B and it let me down a bit. It tried to take me all over town but luckily I visited the place when I made reservations so I figured out how to get there. It took about 35 minutes to walk with all my bags but I made it. The place was amazing. I had a room that was in the mountain overlooking a whole section of the city. I had a refrigerator, hot plate & utensils so that I could make eggs the next morning. These are the first eggs I've had for breakfast since I've been in Italy. There were 3 steps up to the bedroom. Rate was highest I've paid so far (55 euros/nt) but I loved it. The owners were nice but not very helpful & they never cleaned, made up or changed linens during my 3 night stay. Se la vie!

6/3/10-6/4/10 - The old town of Matera dates from the Middle Ages is built on the Sassi - literally stones - an intricate series of terraced caves. There are 3 main areas - Civita or the old city; Sasso Caveroso; & Sasso Barisano. Both of the Sasso's are divided by a ravene. You walk in a big arc to all area & then head down into the ravene. I wandered around for 2 days & saw most of it. The churches are also amazing here. Unfortunately it rained 1 day very hard so it somewhat stopped me but got to see most of it. Ran into a travel agent in town that spoke perfect English & she was great help to me. Matera is amazing & my favorite city so far! even though I did like Lecce a lot!

6/5/10 - Left Matera in the morning. B&B said I had to be out by 10am. Was able to find a bus part of way up hill back to train station. Was able to take the train to Bari instead of the bus. Much better trip. Arrived in Bari & wandered around through the old town & visited the churches here. This time it was during the week & the city was bustling. Had a great dinner at a fish restaurant near the Statione Maritima. Fish was wonderful. There was a rock concert in the main plaza for the old city and I stopped for short time to listen to the music. Went back to the B&B I booked which was not my favorite but conveniently located 2 blocks from the train station for my early morning train to Bologna. I'll cover Bologna & rest of journey in my next email.