Monday,
1/28/13 - Dambulla - Drove from Anuradhapura to Dambulla this
morning. This is a very gritty town that
is known for it's famous cave temples.
There are 5 main caves which were carved out of an enormous granite
outcrop beginning BC & restored in the 17th & 18th Centuries by Kandyan
kings.
It was an an amazing site with a large
number of Buddas both standing & seated. The art work was great. I spent a
few hours here. Also, at bottom of steps
of the cave temples was a 30 meter golden Budda with a small museum
inside. All was very interesting.
We then headed to my hotel, Nice Place
Hotel for the night. It was located down
a very rural, bumpy & sometimes dirt road in the middle of nowhere. It was a "nice place" with a
bungalow just for me but the road leading to it was horrendous. Had dinner at
hotel which was pretty good. It's really
funny, all hotels & restaurants have
the identical menu!
Tuesday,
1/29/13 - Dambulla - Today I journeyed to Sigirya, a citadel sitting
atop a gneiss rock 200 meters above the surrounding countryside. I spent a few hours here with an excellent
guide that was included with my services from Original Srilankans Tours. This
amazing site consists of 2 sections: the rock & area around the base of
the rock. The climb up was tough but
really worth it. The views were great
& the section know as the Sigiriya Damsels houses the famous frescoes which
were painted in the Fifth Century. The
terraces & gardens were also special.
In the afternoon, I decided to do a safari to view the
elephants in Minneriya National Park.
Chanaka, my driver, told me that this was as good a place to view them
as Uda Walawe Natl. Park which I planned to visit later in the trip. It was a rough & bumpy trip but I did see
elephants. It was a good trip & saw some charging baby elephants & a
couple of groupings.
Went back into town & visited the
only 24 hour produce market in Sri Lanka. It is located in 3 huge metal roofed
open warehouses. They service the whole island.
Huge quantities of bananas,
potatoes, fruits, etc.
Had dinner at Heritage Hotel Dambulla which is a 4 star hotel. Dining room very small & food good but nothing special.
Wednesday, 1/30/13 - Kandy - On way into Kandy stopped
at one of the many Spice Garden's, Oak-Ray Isiwara Ayurvedic Village in Matale (there are over 200 in Kandy alone). This is really a sales pitch site for their
products but it was very interesting anyway. Saw many spices in their natural
environment. Also had demonstration on acquiring coconuts for high in tree.
Arrived in Kandy & checked in to the
Anna Shanti Villa which was run by a lovely Australian women & her
Srilankan husband. This was a great
place, one of best of the trip & had
a good breakfast. Location is on other side of the lake up a hill so you
definitely need transportation to see the town.
Headed toTemple of the Sacred Tooth
which is considered to be SrI Lanka's most important Buddhist temple. It houses the legendary Buddha's Tooth which
arrived here in the 16th century. The
temple & shrine were built by two reigning kings between late 1600's
through end of 1700's. It is a super site & I was able to view the Relic
Chamber after the early evening Pujas (religious ceremony). It was really crowded but I got some good
pictures.
Also visited Raja Tusker Museum located
on grounds of the temple. Raja is Sri
Lanka's most famous elephant. He carried
the Tooth Relic casket fof 50 years before his death. His stuffed remains stand in this
museum.
Afterwards, wWent to 3 devales (temples)
honoring Pattini, Natha, & Vishnu.
Went to restaurant in town which Chanaka
recommended which was ok but not the greatest.
After dinner went to pharmacy since I goofed by not bringing enough
Advair with me for my asthma. They had a replacement which is fraction of cost
in US only strength a bit different.
In the evening caught the main local
cultural show with dance & music.
Place was not air conditioned but got good seat. At the end they do fire eating & fire walking
dance. Show was 500 rupees.
Area around the lake is nice but rest of
town is scruffy.
Thursday, 1/31/13 - Kandy - One of top attractions in
the area is the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage.
Established in 1975 to care for 5 orphaned elephants, it has grown to
over 100. There is feeding of baby
elephants, the feeding of the older elephants in an open field and the
highlight which is when the elephants are driven through a makeshift (tourist)
street across the road to the Ma Oya river for a leisurely bath. What a lovely site. I was able to touch the elephants & was
surprised that the skin was not tough & leathery. Even though touristy, it was a great experience.
Next stop was Peradeniya Botanical
Gardens. A huge place with nice display
of orchids. There was also huge trees
with several clusters of fruit bats. They were not in a cave or hidden which was a real surprise. It
was really hot so only stayed about an hour here. Not too much in bloom.
Afterwards, we went on the three-temples loop: Embekke Devale dates from the 14th century
with it's digge (drummer's pavilion) consisting of intricately decorated wooden
pillars; Lankatilake, founded in 1344 & built on a huge rock outcrop is
painted blue instead of white; & Gadaladeniya,
also dates from 1344 houses a fine gold Buddha.
This evening went to a super restaurant
(Bamboo Gardens) recommended by the hotel where I had best dinner so far. Situated on a rooftop with contemporary vibe.
Friday,
2/1/13 - Nuwara Eliya - First stopped in Bandarawela at the Mlesha Tea
Shop. This one of commercial companies
in Sri Lanka. Then went to 2 tea plantations on way to hill country. Visited
tea factory recommended by Chanaka, Bluefield Tea Gardens located in Ramboda & shared a lovely pot of tea with Chanaka that was free. Afterwards went to
Labookellie Tea Centre in Labukele.
Although smaller, a better presentation.
Had tea & very nice pound cake here but it was not free but reasonable. Went to hotel, Hill Breeze Villa which was located out of town on a
remote, very steep hill. Run by a local
who lived in LA. Nice place but no
heat & 61 degrees in room at night,
brrrr! Not great location either. Room was spacious & views great but otherwise would not recommend.
Went into town & visited Grand Hotel
which was wonderful. Decided to have
dinner here at the buffet for $22 pp.
What a super spread incl. sashimi, roast beef, salads, cheeses & desserts. Great
food & presentation. Best food so
far. Chanaka enjoyed it also.
Saturday, 2/2/13- Nuwara Eliya - Drove through hill
country this morning on way to Haputale where I visited the Dambatenne Tea
Factory. Very authentic with no shop. This is only fee-based tea factory tour I
did. Good tour but took long time before
anyone showed up to take me.
Prebooked observation car for ride from
Haputale to Ella through mountains. Cost
750 rupees regardless of where you get on from Colombo to end, same price &
seat is reserved for whole journey.
Suppose to be very scenic but was disappointed. Only 45 min. ride. Rail car was a kick, very old & crowded.
Chanaka picked me up from Ella & drove back to Nuwara Eliya-2.5 hrs.
Had dinner at Milano Restaurant which
was recommended by Chanaka. OK but
nothing special.
Sunday,
2/3/13 - Mirissa - Kind of a long drive to Mirissa but well worth
it. On the way, stopped at the
Buduruwagala rock carvings in Wellawaya.
This site features a series of 7 figures carved in low relief into the
face of a large outcrop dating from the 10h century.
Mirissa is a terrific beach resort. Stayed at Handagedara Resort which is
boutique type villa 5 minute walk to the beach. Canopied bed with all wood
furniture. Beach is lined with small
hotels & restaurants & oozes ambiance.
What a beautiful setting! Ate
dinner at recommended place on beach from Lonely Planet. Very overrated & fish was not
fresh. I was worried I was going to get
sick but I was fine.
Monday,
2/4/13 - Mirissa - This morning I was booked by Sharon on Raja & the Whales
excursion for 3 hours. It was chaos
getting on the boat but once aboard it went smoothly. They served fruit &
later an omelette. Saw a few whales but not too much else. Fair trip but too long for what I saw.
After cruise went for long walk then
took a swim. Had great dinner on beach
at Sea View Restaurant. Had seafood
platter which was delicious.
Tuesday, 2/5/13 - Beruwala Beach - The
drive today takes me through several beach towns plus a short visit to the
Dutch port city of Galle. On the way, I
visited Kataluwa Purvarama Mahavihara near Koggala. This temple is know for it's Kandyan-style
wall paintings. I had to wait for a
resident monk to open up just for me & he gave me a great tour for a small
donation.
Galle is Sri Lanka's forth largest
city. The old quarter is know as the
fort. There is a huge fort with a main
gate & several bastions. There are also lovely Dutch villas along the
narrow picturesque streets. Near the
fort are the old warehouses & courts, housed in buildings dating back to
the 1800's. I found a Muslim ice cream
shop selling homemade treats which were in prepackaged cups. It was really good since the heat of the late
morning sun was getting to me.
Hikkaduwa is known for descent snorkeling. Chanaka stopped at place where
I attempted to do some snorkeling. The
company (I use this term very loosely) that was recommended was really
bad. After haggling over price, they
provided me with inferior equipment. An
outrigger canoe took me to the spot I was suppose to snorkel at. When I went to put on the mask, the snorkel
slipped out & fell into the water.
That ended my trip. I jumped in
the water but couldn't find the snorkel so I told the canoer to take me
back. Really had a rough time getting
back on the outrigger canoe. They wanted
to charge me for the snorkel but I refused & we left. Total waste of money. This was only ripoff on whole trip.
Proceeded up the coast to Aluthgama
where I visited Kande Vihara temple with it's tall Buddha statue & ornate
18th century image house housing Kangyan-era murals. These were beautifully done in porcelain.
A short distance from here with a lot of
help from locals, Chanaka took me to Brief Garden. This was former estate of writer & artist
Bevis Bawa, elder brother of the architect Geoffrey Bawa. What an amazing site. The artwork & antiques were amazing. One of Bevis' s friends came for a week visit
& stayed 5 years (artist Donald Friend)!
Arrived at my digs for the evening
which was the Ypsylon Resort. A
beachfront property with a great sunset.
My room faced the ocean & was more like a bungalow than a room. Wonderful setting. Next door to our resort was a 5 star resort (Cinnamon Bey)
where I decided to have dinner. Was
disappointing considering the price but a very luxe, modern place & beautifully
appointed.
Wednesday, 2/6/13 - Negombo - Decided to spent morning
at Beruwala Beach because it was so beautiful. Left around 11:30am because I
got lost walking back to the resort.
First stop of the day was in
Kalutara. Gangatilaka Vihara is an
immense dagoba built in the '60s that is situated along the main road. Inside the walls are adorned by a ring of 75
murals depicting various scenes from Buddha's life. This was one of the only
places where the captions were in English.
Made a fast visit through Colombo. Saw
the Mount Lavinia Hotel then found Geoffrey Bawa's house (No. 11, 33rd Lane)
off the beaten path. When we arrived the place looked shuttered but rang the
bell & they let me in to tour.
Usually only open by appointment but because my guidebook didn't
indicate they let me in. Acquired
between 1959 & 1968, this special residence has wonderful artwork & artifacts. Very happy I was able to
visit!
Next went to Galle Face Green &
strolled over to the 5-star Galle Face Hotel.
A lovely edifice with great art & decor. By the time I was ready to leave the sky's
opened up & it rained torrentially! I
wanted to go next go the Pettah area which is the bazaar district. There is a
very strong Tamil & Muslim prescience here but due to the rain &
flooding was unable to go. Chanaka drove
me past some of the areas but will have to come back to really see.
Arrived in Negombo & checked into
Choy's Waterfront Residence which turned out to be the best place I stayed on
whole trip. Only glitch was room on 4th
floor & no elevator. 10 minute walk
to fish market which was great. Entrance
looks like a restaurant but rooms were great , very modern with safe, fridge
& coffee maker. Breakfast was pretty
good.
For dinner we went to Lords Restaurant
which turned out to be one of best on trip.
Food was great & the night we were there they had a 45 minute show
that was as good as one in Kandy.
Thursday, 2/7/13 - Negombo/Bangalore - In the morning I
went to the fish market which was suppose to be busy around 8am. Got there at 9am & nothing happening
except for some fish drying on the beach.
By 9:30-10:30 am action picked up & was great. Lots of people & fish. Spent couple of hours here before heading
back to hotel. Very hot & humid. Chanaka took me to airport & left on
Srilankan Airlines to Bangalore. Not
anywhere near as good as Emirates but price was right.