Visit to Sri Lanka 2013

Monday,  1/28/13 - Dambulla - Drove from Anuradhapura to Dambulla this morning.  This is a very gritty town that is known for it's famous cave temples.  There are 5 main caves which were carved out of an enormous granite outcrop beginning BC & restored in the 17th & 18th Centuries by Kandyan kings. 

It was an an amazing site with a large number of Buddas both standing & seated. The art work was great. I spent a few hours here.  Also, at bottom of steps of the cave temples was a 30 meter golden Budda with a small museum inside.  All was very interesting.

We then headed to my hotel, Nice Place Hotel for the night.  It was located down a very rural, bumpy & sometimes dirt road in the middle of nowhere.  It was a "nice place" with a bungalow just for me but the road leading to it was horrendous. Had dinner at hotel which was pretty good.  It's really funny,  all hotels & restaurants have the identical menu!

Tuesday,  1/29/13 - Dambulla - Today I journeyed to Sigirya, a citadel sitting atop a gneiss rock 200 meters above the surrounding countryside.  I spent a few hours here with an excellent guide that was included with my services from Original Srilankans Tours. This amazing site consists of 2 sections: the rock &  area around the base of the rock.  The climb up was tough but really worth it.  The views were great & the section know as the Sigiriya Damsels houses the famous frescoes which were painted in the Fifth Century.  The terraces & gardens were also special.

In the afternoon,  I decided to do a safari to view the elephants in Minneriya National Park.  Chanaka, my driver, told me that this was as good a place to view them as Uda Walawe Natl. Park which I planned to visit later in the trip.  It was a rough & bumpy trip but I did see elephants. It was a good trip & saw some charging baby elephants & a couple of groupings.

Went back into town & visited the only 24 hour produce market in Sri Lanka. It is located in 3 huge metal roofed open warehouses. They service the whole island.  Huge quantities of bananas,  potatoes, fruits, etc.

Had dinner at Heritage Hotel Dambulla which is a 4 star hotel.  Dining room very small & food good but nothing special.

Wednesday,  1/30/13 - Kandy - On way into Kandy stopped at one of the many Spice Garden's, Oak-Ray Isiwara Ayurvedic Village in Matale (there are over 200 in Kandy alone).  This is really a sales pitch site for their products but it was very interesting anyway. Saw many spices in their natural environment. Also had demonstration on acquiring coconuts for high in tree.

Arrived in Kandy & checked in to the Anna Shanti Villa which was run by a lovely Australian women & her Srilankan husband.  This was a great place,  one of best of the trip & had a good breakfast. Location is on other side of the lake up a hill so you definitely need transportation to see the town.

Headed toTemple of the Sacred Tooth which is considered to be SrI Lanka's most important Buddhist temple.  It houses the legendary Buddha's Tooth which arrived here in the 16th century.   The temple & shrine were built by two reigning kings between late 1600's through end of 1700's. It is a super site & I was able to view the Relic Chamber after the early evening Pujas (religious ceremony).  It was really crowded but I got some good pictures.

Also visited Raja Tusker Museum located on grounds of the temple.  Raja is Sri Lanka's most famous elephant.  He carried the Tooth Relic casket fof 50 years before his death.  His stuffed remains stand in this museum.  

Afterwards, wWent to 3 devales (temples) honoring Pattini, Natha, & Vishnu.

Went to restaurant in town which Chanaka recommended which was ok but not the greatest.   After dinner went to pharmacy since I goofed by not bringing enough Advair with me for my asthma. They had a replacement which is fraction of cost in US only strength a bit different.

In the evening caught the main local cultural show with dance & music.  Place was not air conditioned but got good seat.  At the end they do fire eating & fire walking dance.  Show was 500 rupees.

Area around the lake is nice but rest of town is scruffy.

Thursday,  1/31/13 - Kandy - One of top attractions in the area is the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage.  Established in 1975 to care for 5 orphaned elephants, it has grown to over 100.  There is feeding of baby elephants, the feeding of the older elephants in an open field and the highlight which is when the elephants are driven through a makeshift (tourist) street across the road to the Ma Oya river for a leisurely bath.  What a lovely site.  I was able to touch the elephants & was surprised that the skin was not tough & leathery.  Even though touristy,  it was a great experience.

Next stop was Peradeniya Botanical Gardens.   A huge place with nice display of orchids.  There was also huge trees with several clusters of fruit bats.  They were not in a cave or hidden which was a real surprise.  It was really hot so only stayed about an hour here.   Not too much in bloom.

Afterwards,  we went on the three-temples loop:  Embekke Devale dates from the 14th century with it's digge (drummer's pavilion) consisting of intricately decorated wooden pillars; Lankatilake, founded in 1344 & built on a huge rock outcrop is painted blue instead of white;  & Gadaladeniya, also dates from 1344 houses a fine gold Buddha.

This evening went to a super restaurant (Bamboo Gardens) recommended by the hotel where I had best dinner so far.  Situated on a rooftop with contemporary vibe.

Friday,  2/1/13 - Nuwara Eliya - First stopped in Bandarawela at the Mlesha Tea Shop.  This one of commercial companies in Sri Lanka. Then went to 2 tea plantations on way to hill country. Visited tea factory recommended by Chanaka, Bluefield Tea Gardens located in Ramboda & shared a lovely pot of tea with Chanaka that was free.  Afterwards went to Labookellie Tea Centre in Labukele.  Although smaller, a better presentation.  Had tea & very nice pound cake here but it was not free but reasonable. Went to hotel, Hill Breeze Villa which was located out of town on a remote, very steep hill.  Run by a local who lived in LA.  Nice place but no heat & 61 degrees in room at night,  brrrr!  Not great location either.  Room was spacious & views great but otherwise would not recommend.

Went into town & visited Grand Hotel which was wonderful.  Decided to have dinner here at the buffet for $22 pp.  What a super spread incl. sashimi, roast beef, salads, cheeses & desserts. Great food & presentation.   Best food so far. Chanaka enjoyed it also.

Saturday,  2/2/13- Nuwara Eliya - Drove through hill country this morning on way to Haputale where I visited the Dambatenne Tea Factory.  Very authentic with no shop.  This is only fee-based tea factory tour I did.  Good tour but took long time before anyone showed up to take me.

Prebooked observation car for ride from Haputale to Ella through mountains.  Cost 750 rupees regardless of where you get on from Colombo to end, same price & seat is reserved for whole journey.  Suppose to be very scenic but was disappointed.  Only 45 min. ride.   Rail car was a kick, very old & crowded. Chanaka picked me up from Ella & drove back to Nuwara Eliya-2.5 hrs.

Had dinner at Milano Restaurant which was recommended by Chanaka.  OK but nothing special.

Sunday,  2/3/13 - Mirissa - Kind of a long drive to Mirissa but well worth it.  On the way, stopped at the Buduruwagala rock carvings in Wellawaya.  This site features a series of 7 figures carved in low relief into the face of a large outcrop dating from the 10h century.   

Mirissa is a terrific beach resort.  Stayed at Handagedara Resort which is boutique type villa 5 minute walk to the beach. Canopied bed with all wood furniture.  Beach is lined with small hotels & restaurants & oozes ambiance.  What a beautiful setting!  Ate dinner at recommended place on beach from Lonely Planet.   Very overrated & fish was not fresh.  I was worried I was going to get sick but I was fine.

Monday,  2/4/13 - Mirissa - This morning I was booked by Sharon on Raja & the Whales excursion for 3 hours.  It was chaos getting on the boat but once aboard it went smoothly. They served fruit & later an omelette. Saw a few whales but not too much else.  Fair trip but too long for what I saw.

After cruise went for long walk then took a swim.  Had great dinner on beach at Sea View Restaurant.   Had seafood platter which was delicious.

Tuesday, 2/5/13 - Beruwala Beach - The drive today takes me through several beach towns plus a short visit to the Dutch port city of Galle.  On the way, I visited Kataluwa Purvarama Mahavihara near Koggala.   This temple is know for it's Kandyan-style wall paintings.  I had to wait for a resident monk to open up just for me & he gave me a great tour for a small donation.

Galle is Sri Lanka's forth largest city.  The old quarter is know as the fort.  There is a huge fort with a main gate & several bastions. There are also lovely Dutch villas along the narrow picturesque streets.  Near the fort are the old warehouses & courts, housed in buildings dating back to the 1800's.  I found a Muslim ice cream shop selling homemade treats which were in prepackaged cups.  It was really good since the heat of the late morning sun was getting to me.

Hikkaduwa is known for descent snorkeling.  Chanaka stopped at place where I attempted to do some snorkeling.  The company (I use this term very loosely) that was recommended was really bad.  After haggling over price, they provided me with inferior equipment.  An outrigger canoe took me to the spot I was suppose to snorkel at.  When I went to put on the mask, the snorkel slipped out & fell into the water.   That ended my trip.  I jumped in the water but couldn't find the snorkel so I told the canoer to take me back.  Really had a rough time getting back on the outrigger canoe.  They wanted to charge me for the snorkel but I refused & we left.  Total waste of money.  This was only ripoff on whole trip.

Proceeded up the coast to Aluthgama where I visited Kande Vihara temple with it's tall Buddha statue & ornate 18th century image house housing Kangyan-era murals.  These were beautifully done in porcelain.

A short distance from here with a lot of help from locals, Chanaka took me to Brief Garden.  This was former estate of writer & artist Bevis Bawa, elder brother of the architect Geoffrey Bawa.  What an amazing site.  The artwork & antiques were amazing.  One of Bevis' s friends came for a week visit & stayed 5 years (artist Donald Friend)!

Arrived at my digs for the evening which was the Ypsylon Resort.  A beachfront property with a great sunset.  My room faced the ocean & was more like a bungalow than a room.  Wonderful setting.  Next door to our resort  was a 5 star resort (Cinnamon Bey) where I decided to have dinner.  Was disappointing considering the price but a very luxe, modern place & beautifully appointed.

Wednesday,  2/6/13 - Negombo - Decided to spent morning at Beruwala Beach because it was so beautiful. Left around 11:30am because I got lost walking back to the resort.

First stop of the day was in Kalutara.  Gangatilaka Vihara is an immense dagoba built in the '60s that is situated along the main road.  Inside the walls are adorned by a ring of 75 murals depicting various scenes from Buddha's life. This was one of the only places where the captions were in English.

Made a fast visit through Colombo. Saw the Mount Lavinia Hotel then found Geoffrey Bawa's house (No. 11, 33rd Lane) off the beaten path. When we arrived the place looked shuttered but rang the bell & they let me in to tour.  Usually only open by appointment but because my guidebook didn't indicate they let me in.  Acquired between 1959 & 1968, this special residence has wonderful artwork & artifacts.   Very happy I was able to visit!

Next went to Galle Face Green & strolled over to the 5-star Galle Face Hotel.  A lovely edifice with great art & decor.  By the time I was ready to leave the sky's opened up & it rained torrentially!  I wanted to go next go the Pettah area which is the bazaar district. There is a very strong Tamil & Muslim prescience here but due to the rain & flooding was unable to go.  Chanaka drove me past some of the areas but will have to come back to really see.

Arrived in Negombo & checked into Choy's Waterfront Residence which turned out to be the best place I stayed on whole trip.  Only glitch was room on 4th floor & no elevator.  10 minute walk to fish market which was great.  Entrance looks like a restaurant but rooms were great , very modern with safe, fridge & coffee maker.  Breakfast was pretty good.

For dinner we went to Lords Restaurant which turned out to be one of best on trip.  Food was great & the night we were there they had a 45 minute show that was as good as one in Kandy.

Thursday,  2/7/13 - Negombo/Bangalore - In the morning I went to the fish market which was suppose to be busy around 8am.  Got there at 9am & nothing happening except for some fish drying on the beach.  By 9:30-10:30 am action picked up & was great.  Lots of people & fish.  Spent couple of hours here before heading back to hotel.  Very hot & humid.  Chanaka took me to airport & left on Srilankan Airlines to Bangalore.  Not anywhere near as good as Emirates but price was right.